This time cabling… But not with standard housings or something. The Tarmac gets an individual routing with the Jagwire Elite-Link which features internal liners. The main color of the links is, of course black but with some nice “GERMAN” accents 🙂
These tools are needed:
- Bike Stand
- 5mm Allen
- CN-10
- Side Cutter
- UP-1
- Tape
Official Service Manual:
Service/Spare Part:
- 2x Shimano Shift Outer Cap for ST (short tongue)
- Y63Z27000
- 2x Jagwire Pro Indexed Inline Adjusters
- BSA057
- Jagwire Road Elite Link Brake (black)
- RCK700
- Jagwire Elite Link Shift (black)
- RCK620
- Jagwire Elite Link Housing Extension (gold and red)
- CHA126
- CHA127
Related Post:
Post as guidance? No warranty in ANY case of damage!
The Tarmac features internal cable routing. That means the cables are routed inside the top tube, down tube and chain stay. During the disassembly I “covered” the cables with liners, which is basically the same as the installation process reversed.
First is the preparation of the fixed housings on the handlebar. After cutting them to length, which is based on the bar tape length/width all openings will be prepared. Open up the internal lines with the pick and install the shifting adjustors.
After that the housings can be inserted in the Shimano STI levers and roughly taped to the handlebar. This will be finalized later. The Ritchey Superlogic EvoCurve handlebar has guided grooves on the downside so there is a better grip when the bar tape is installed.
Now it is time to craft some housings… The Jagwire Elite Link is basically a liner were the elements are fitted over. There is always a defined start and ending link or construct, defined of each type (e.g. brake or classic housing bridge). Generally, the liner will be dropped inside the frame as a tail, just like the Shimano caps on open frame cabling.
Now for the cabling. As always the front brake first… Just insert the cable and add the elite link part.
Same on the rear brake but down the upper tube.
In the end just a loose tightening on each brake. The final length and torque will be done in a later.
Next are the shifting cables. This is nearly the same procedure as the brakes. The insertion of the cable is on the outside of the STI lever. Important on this step is the correct fixing of the cable inside the lever. Then it just thread the cable into the outer shifting cap with the tongue and close the cap.
Now for the down tube routing. Important on this one is that both cables are getting crossed inside the down tube. This may be a little tricky but possible.
Background Info
The main reason for this is to prevent noise while the cable is “slapping” inside the down tube. In combination with the outside crossing ahead the handlebar this is called the “California Cross”
Also tricky on this part is the insertion and cabling on the guiding piece. Important on this on os also a longer sleeve on the end of each housing.
Down to the bottom bracket there is a guide which leads the left cable to the chain stay and the rear derailleur and the right upwards to the front derailleur.
It is also common to put some liners through this bb-guide for a better shifting experience. The cables then do not weather and are also protected from dirt and grime.
Finally the last step is to secure the cables on the front and rear derailleur, temporarily.