Time to get all those components working together… cabling, hell yeah! As always the original Shimano sets will take place in this game. Still pleased with the quality in braking and shifting. So let’s start!

Post as guidance? No warranty in ANY case of damage!

My preferred starting point are the front brake. I measure the housing for the brakes with the old one, so just copy and cut. Important is to get a clean cut and an open end of the outer casting. I use a center punch for this.

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If its done insert the brake cable into the left lever and put the BC-9000 into its place. STI lever first than the brake entrance. The tightening and cutting will be done later.

At this moment it is also useful to tape the cable sleeves in its intended position at the handlebar.

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Now for the rear brake. During the disassembly I noticed a “welded” connection on the rear brake exit. It was impossible to pull those end cap apart from the outlet… I decided to customize this little b1t#h. Dremel, sandpaper, painting and a few hours later it looks quite good… and of course the new screw will be a titanium one =)

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Time to continue… Same method in cutting the length and preparing of the BC-9000. Only difference: one cap with tongue inside the rear brake outlet because the rear brake is running inside the frame.

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For fasteting the brake cable it is useful to unscrew the adjustment screw. Then pull on the cable to straighten it and tighten the screw with 6-8NM. After that release the screw for the desired brake feeling and fine tune the brake pad alignment.

In the end when everything looks good time for the cutting and the tip cable tip – brake is 1,8mm. 

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Brakes are done, time for the shifting experience =)

Note: Dura Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set

The Dura Ace R9100 has its “own” shifting cable set (Y-0BM98010). Reason for this is the new design of the rear derailleur. The entrance of the cable is higher than before which results in a shorter radius. If the radius is to extreme for the OT-SP41, there is a chance of bad shifting qualit because the cable is rubbing to much inside the sleeve. For this shimano designed the rear derailleur sleeve OT-RS900. The set still features the OT-SP41 as the general sleeve but also the OT-RS900 with an end cap for the rear derailleur.

First will be the front derailleur, shift to the lowest chain ring.

After cutting the OT-SP41 to length as well as clearing the entrance, the cable end caps with small tongues are needed. The sleeve with tongue will be inserted into the lever inside the groove. After that open the cap to thread the cable through the entrance. If its done close the cap.

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Taped to the handlebar the cable goes through the guide with the end cap (long tongue) directly to the bottom bracket cable guide. After that straight to the front derailleur. Here pull the cable and fasten the screw to 6-7NM.

The front derailleur of the Dura Ace R9100 has a mark to set the cable tension. This is done by shifting to the large chain ring and then half down to the trim position. After that is is possible to set the tension by the derailleur screw or the frame adjustment. Finally guide the cable through the the front derailleur cap and put it in place. Final length and cable tip  will be done later.

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The rear derailleur is the same procedure: sleeve length, cap with small tongue inside the sti lever, cap with large tongue directed to the bottom bracket inside the cable adjustment. The OT-RS900 has the perfect length for the Allez so no cutting here. Torque are the same 6-7NM. Finals cable length and tip as well as the adjustment will be done in a later post.

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Looks good to me… time for the chain in the next post.

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