Because this is a “ReBuild” I have some experience with the ZIPP 404 NSW and the original “Tangente Platinum Pro EVO” brake pads. Those pads are good in stop quality but the durability is like a rubber…

I remember my first pair run out after 800 kilometers… not acceptable in the FLATS! So I called ZIPP and asked if this is normal. The answer – no. To make up for it i got a two sets. But on these I share the same experience!

Time to make a change. I switched to SwissStop which are supproted by ZIPP. Those are much better. My choice: SwissStop FlashPro Black Prince

Post as guidance? No warranty in ANY case of damage!

First step is to Change the worn out brake pads. As said in the intro this will be the SwissStop FlashPro Black Prince.

Info
SwissStop is THE brake pad manufacturer. The ZIPP Tangente Platinum Pro EVO are also from SwissStop (but with lower quality?!). They are also the supplier for the OEM Shimano pads and the Mavic pads (e.g. Exalith). You can identify them by the FlashPro branding.

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Now for the customizing part and the brake pad change. I will change the oem fixing bolts to titanium ones. I think the Dura Ace are also titanium but mine are 0.7gram lighter =D

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The brake bad change is really easy. First is to unscrew the screw which secures the pad (2mm Allen). After that it is possible to slide the old pad out.

After a short cleaning with a brush the new pads can be installed. It is important that the shoe matches with the pad. Therefore the direction and side of the pad is labeled on the back/inside.

Last step on the pad installation is the the securing by the screw. I always use some Loctite 222 (pruple) on these.

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Now back on the bike, first of all a loosen fit.

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To get a perfect brake pad slope I use cables ties (manual 0.5mm). This hack allows an easy alignment and torque down without a 2nd person or “third hand”.

For a better orientation I centered the cable ties straight to the valve. Just make sure the overlapping length on the brake surface is equal.

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Now for the pad alignment with only two hands. Including torque without any special tools.

First of all is to fully open the caliper jack and unscrew the cable tensioner. After that it is possible to compress the caliper and align the pads. Set the torque to 5-7NM.

Now for the correct cable tension. Keep the caliper compressed and pull the cable. Then slightly torque the fastener screw. Just “feel” the cable during the approach. Again pull on the cable and you will notice a “rubbing”. This comes from the fastener screw – so the cable should not be pulled back itself after you let it go. Now set the toque to 6-8NM.

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Now it is possible to release the cable tensioner and close the caliper jack. The right pad should be aligned perfectly while the left one is possibly to wide/narrow. This can be handled with the alignment screw on the left. Just set it to an equal distance.

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Final step is to cut the cable and install the cable tips.

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