This one lasts for a long time… but finally a new bottom bracket is rising. This is only a “cheap” workaround for the next project upcoming. So there is no fancy ceramic blingbling. Maybe later =D
Main reason for this are still the creaking sounds while pedaling, as well as the nasty adapter cups from BB30 to Shimano 24. So here comes the ROTOR BB30-24.
These tools are needed:
- Bike stand
- Rubber Mallet
- Torque Wrench
- Anti Seize
- Loctite 243
Official Service Manual:
- ROTOR BB30 to 24
- BB 4224
No warranty in ANY case of damage!
First step is to dismount the crank so the bb is freed. Just check out this post: Bottom Bracket Service
So now for the bearings. To remove those pressed in bearings we need the BBT-30.4 and force. This will be sponsored by a rubber mallet.
After the bearings are dropped out the clasp rings are still in the game. To get ride of these a snipe nose pliers is very usefull. This is a strong exercice because there are no compression holes. In the end the rings are damaged to advantage the BB cup.
After a cleanup the BB cup is prepared and ready to go.
Short lesson in BB’s:
Those are classic BB30’s. This means single bearings press fitted into the frame but not to be confused with a pressfit BB (PF30). Specialized call them “OSBB” but they call all their BB’s “OSBB”… BB30, PF30, BB86. Thank you =D
BB30 describes the axle diameter (=30mm) not the cup itself. On the Allez there is a diameter of 42mm, so correctly this is a “BB42”. The width of the shell is 68mm. Because I’m running a Shimano train I need a axle diameter of 24 straight. The best way to do that is a BB30-to-24.
And here it is… the ROTOR BB30-to-24. This BB is a threaded. It adaptes 42mm cups with a width of 68mm to the 24mm Shimano drive trains standard. Just awesome, no more adapter.
Just for your info. Especially this BB is shared with ceramicspeed. So if you go for the cermic version of this BB you get a ceramicspeed bearing for a better price. This one is the steal version because it will changed this winter again… but why? =D
Now for the installation. The contact surface to the BB shell must coverd with anti seize. I personally added some Loctite 243 to the thread to give the installation a stronger join. This is not needed but a common act.
Insert the drive side (right) first. This should be a precisely fitting. After that just tighten the BB30 to its final torque of 40NM. The installed BB looks just great!
Final assembly with the new sealed crank. Right side first (do not forget the grease), then the new gasket on the left arm. After the arm is in its place, hand tighten the crank cap and torque the arm to 14NM. Done.
My result after a short ride: No creaking sounds, just perfect as expected.